At over 600,00 square miles of land-locked territory, Mongolia makes one feel small. Starting a drive from Dalanzadgad toward Gurvansaikhan in a Soviet 4x4 with a driver (who is also a school administrator, guide and fixer), we travel west for an entire day without seeing a single road sign. Yet in this vastness, the likelihood of coming across a traveler moving his dwelling atop his camel with his dog in tow proves to be surprisingly high. A short conversation with the nomad confirms that the 4x4 is on the right path. But the school administrator does not need directions, and we continue on, following the ruts and tracks in the sand.